The 2G Addendum

This document is intended to be used in conjunction with the 1G page.  The basic procedure is very similar for both the 2G and the 1G therefore only the things that are significantly different are enumerated here. Make sure you print out and have familiarized yourself  with both documents before beginning any modifications to your vehicle!

The good news is that the 2G enjoys the same benefits from the higher flowing fuel system!  This procedure has successfully been performed on a number of 2nd gens.   Note that the parts list is a little different for the 2G since the system only requires one braided stainless hose.  That also means that you need less hose and its therefore a little less expensive (always a good thing).

A special thanks to Hal Landry for his assistance and some of the photos used in this creation of the 2G addendum.  Check out Hal's awesome 2G DSM here.

A Word About Fuel Pressure Regulators

We've gotten a lot of questions regarding the need to use an aftermarket FPR. It turns out that the stock regulator works very well from the nominal operating point (40psi) upward.  However, when the engine is under vacuum (deceleration or idle), the stock regulator will have trouble lowering the pressure in a linear manner due to the increased flow of this system.  In our shop cars we typically get 30-35psi under vacuum.  This doesn't turn out to be a problem for our setup since we can verify through datalogging that the ECU compensates nicely by adjusting the lower fuel trim.

One of our local  fast guys (Jason Martinez) has also used an SX regulator with good results.  So the bottom line as far as we're concerned is that the stocker is fine but if you want very fine control over the low end of the range and are willing to bear the extra cost, an aftermarket regulator can be a nice touch.

2G Parts, Tools & Supplies List

2G PROCEDURE

There are three main parts to the procedure: 1) Disassembly & stock system removal, 2) Assembly of new hose and fittings & machining the fuel rail, and 3) Routing new lines and installing new assemblies. The diagram below is the basic plumbing hookup for the system. Use it as a guide while following the instructions further down.

A complete kit is available from SteveTek that contains all the parts, assembled stainless lines, and machine work for the fuel rail and bracket (requires core deposit) for those that desire it. Please check out the products page for ordering info. 

2G procedure differences
	1.  First, you'll need to relieve the fuel pressure in the system. Remove the back seat to gain access to the fuel tank hatch.  Disconnect the fuel pump wire harness pictured.  Start the car and let it run until it dies.  If  you haven't driven the car for a while, it may not have enough latent pressure to start up (not a problem).
	Step 2 (similar)
	3. There is no throttle body bracket to worry about :-)
	Steps 4-5 (similar)
Assembly of new hoses and fittings & machining the fuel rail
	6-7.  Looking at the schematic above, note that we only need to make one hose (labeled "A") First, a few words about working with AN connectors and braided line.  If you are not familiar with these components, click here for a brief tutorial. Start with the end that will hook up to the fitting out of the tank and attach one of the straight hose fittings.  You will be cutting the other end of the hose to length once you run it up to the engine compartment so you'll need to wait to attach the other hose end.
	8. Referring to the schematic above, (similar to the photo at left) assemble the fuel filter to the straight swivel coupler and then to the fuel pressure sender adapter. Be sure to get the flow orientation of the filter correct (there is a marking on the body of the filter indicating the right flow direction). Screw the sender into the adapter using teflon tape to make a good seal. Tighten with a wrench. NOTE: Do not use teflon tape on any flair end but do use it to seal  NPT connections (in this instance that's only the 1/8 NPT fuel pressure sender). Set this sub-assembly aside for later.
	9.  (Skip this step)  No need for the sheet rubber since we won't be putting the filter back in the stock location.  You can also discard the old stock fuel filter bracket if you like.
	Steps 10-12 (same)
Routing new lines and installing new components
	Steps 13-15 (similar).  Routing the line is a bit easier on the 2G since the tank is under the back seat.  You'll be routing the line on the passenger side of the car as well.  This means that you wont have to use as many cushion clamps (3 vs 5) and you won't have to worry about getting around the steering boot.  Don't forget to use a generous amount of teflon tape on the fitting pictured for a good seal.  After you get the line up into the engine compartment, you can mark it to length for cutting.  We suggest that you attach the filter sub-assembly before cutting to insure that you have adequate length.
	(Omit step 16) Step 17 (same)
	18.  Connect the 45° swivel connector fitting to the rail. Make sure that all the filter sub-assembly connections are tight and then connect the sub-assembly to the 45° rail fitting. Lastly cut your SS hose to the right length, install the last straight hose end fitting and then attach it to the bottom of the fuel filter as shown at left. Note that the filter and pressure sender sub-assembly will go under the upper IC pipe.
	Omit  step 19.
20. Install the throttle body elbow, upper IC pipe, battery box and battery. We highly recommend connecting +12V to the auxiliary FP connector (behind the battery on the firewall)  to actuate the fuel pump relay to check for fuel system leaks prior to attempting to start the vehicle.

Copyright 2000, by SteveTek Inc. 
Please direct any and all correspondence regarding this document to engineering_staff@stevetek.com